some chips set them step by step, as shown in the article
others only set them at them very end, together
and then there are chips which follow the read-modify-write op with another read, to check if the RMW succeeded... which promptly causes them to hang hard when the page tables live in read-only memory i.e. ROM... fun fun fun!
as for segmentation fun... think about CS always being writeable in real mode... even though the access rights only have a R but no W bit for it...